Retention is one of the trickiest parts to narrow down if you are having issues but there are some tips I can give you to ensure you're covering all bases on your end.
#1 Always wash your clients eyelashes - whether this is for an infill or a full set always shampoo them with a specific lash extension safe shampoo. Do not use micellar water, baby shampoo or other facial products.
#2 Correct attachment - One of the biggest lash retention issues is with placement of the extension to the natural lash. You want to make sure you have flush bases and wrapping to keep those extensions onto the natural lash for its entire lash cycle.
#3 Bonder - A bonder for your extensions post service is a great top tip. As cyanoacrylate needs liquid to cure adding a bonder is a great way to ensure this process has occurred the way it should before your client opens their eyes.
#4 Humidity and Temperature - When purchasing your adhesive, it will come in a sealed pouch that will have manufacturers instructions on it to show you how to best use your adhesive. Most adhesives will need to be in an environment of 18-23 degrees in 30-70% humidity to be working at its most effective. If your environment is not within these parameters it is best to invest into a dehumidifier, humidifier and air conditioner to control them.
#5 Do not swipe your adhesive before application - When you as the artist swipes the adhesive, you are not giving the tools you have to cure against each other how they should. The curing process gets interrupted when you do this. It is super common to see lots of adhesive dots on the eye pads but it is not necessary.
#6 Avoid stickies at all costs! - Not only does a sticky cause damage to the natural lash, it also adds extra weight to the natural lash it is stuck to. No matter whether you've been lashing 10 minutes or 10 years, ALWAYS check for stickies.
#7 Lash 100% of the natural lashes - Some artists will leave 10% or 20% of the lashes. Lash every single one! Those baby lashes as long as they aren't super light, you CAN lash them! Use a light diameter and a smaller bundle or weight in lash. This is so that your client can still have a full lash line whether they are all 0.03 or 0.10.
#8 Keep medications in mind - If a client is undergoing chemotherapy or is on thyroid medication, it is important to note that the lashes may be lighter, more brittle and have a faster shed. Pregnancy and other hormonal changes including stress can cause for a faster shed. Keep these in mind when coming into contact with these clients and always ensure to use lighter diameters and fans to begin.
#9 Nano misters - In Australia our humidity is normally above 40%. This means there is enough humidity in the air to polymerise the adhesive. I would recommend against this as you don't want to speed up your polymerisation time as this could give your client bad retention.
10# Adhesive texture - Notice when your adhesive changes. If it is getting stringy or thicker, you need to change your adhesive to a new dot. It should consistently be light and a thin consistency. This can change depending on the glue you have purchased but if your adhesive is becoming stringy, change it immediately and give the lashes a good brush through as some you may have just placed, won't last.
These are my top 10 tips on how to improve your lash retention. If after these steps, your client is still not reaching an infill time frame, go back to the basics and see what may have changed including if they are following proper aftercare instructions.
I would look into smaller diameters of lashes if you are unsure of what to go to next.
For any further questions, head to our Instagram and send us a dm and we will assist you.
Owner & Founder,
Mrs. Lash Lounge
Gold Coast, Queensland Australia.
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